Greg Sherwood MW
Tasting notes from the presentation at Harrods, September 06th 2011
Wonderful wines in a wonderful setting. I had already heard a lot about the exceptionally high quality / low yields of the 2010 Rieslings from the top growers but this was my first proper chance to taste some in depth. Low yields suggested concentrated wines. Wow. The 2010s are intense, concentrated and so powerful with piercing acids that make the wines almost painful to drink now. The Grosse Gewachs were probably the most impressive array I have tasted from any grower, from any vintage to date! I will certainly be putting a few of these in my cellar for long term aging. They are certain to be collectable icons of the future.
2009 Reichsrat Von Buhl Spatburgunder Rose Sket b.A Brut
Beautiful savoury meaty red fruits on the nose with a sweet dusty bon bon minerality. Palate is super creamy with stony red fruits, an excellent full mousse and a dry “grapey” chalky finish. Carries the 7 grams dosage well. Super mineral effort that’s dry and serious. Drink now to 2012+
2009 Reichsrat Von Buhl Riesling Sekt b.A Brut
Nose is packed full of zesty lemon and lime citrus notes and a dusty chalky bon bon minerality. Again, the palate is wonderfully creamy, bursting with dry bitter lemon and yellow tart grapefruit, with a definite chalky, gravelly vein. Rapier fresh and lively, balanced by a creamy mouth-filling mousse and finishing with an attractive dry sherbitty length. Drink now to 2014.
2010 Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Very expressive aromas packed with musk, hand-lotion fragrance, talcum, dusty chalky minerality and dried lemons. Palate is full and massively concentrated with a searing intensity of fruit and fresh acids. Multiple layers of tart white peach, lime cordial and white flowers emerge. Amazing acid / fruit power leading to a long, long finish. An incredibly linear, concentrated and fresh vintage that is exceptionally fine. Drink from 2014 to 2028+
2010 Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs
Nose is initially tight and closed, but slowly releases a dusty mineral lift with lime, yellow citrus and chalky grapefruit notes. Palate is broad and very intense with a wonderful concentration of acids and fruit power. Hints of exotic passion fruit on a very long, taught, concentrated finish. Another epic Pechstein that will demand cellaring. Drink from 2016 to 2030+
2010 Reiterpfad Riesling Auslese
A classic sweet Auslese from Von Buhl with their characteristic strawberries and vanilla ice cream aromatics on the nose. The palate is jam packed with white peaches, strawberry and cranberry fruits and a underlay of exotic passion fruit. Excellent zesty acids that balance the sweetness superbly. A wine of power, ripe extract and impressive length. 140 g/l RS. This is another potentially very long-lived classic in the making. Drink from 2015 to 2035+
1945 Diedesheimer Vogelsang Riesling Beenenauslese (tasted blind)
Dark orange, golden barley sugar colour. This is something seriously good. A complex nose of bitter caramelized oranges, brulees notes, vanilla pod, roasted nuts and boiled barley sugar sweets. Palate is full and very textural, even weighty, but the finish offers a sensation of dryness. Baffling! Layers of complex chocolate oranges, baking spices, candied fruits and dried citrus peel on the finish. You expect it to be sweeter than it actually is. Excellent complexity, freshness and balance points to an aged wine from an outstanding year. Perhaps an Auslese from the early 1950’s? Would make the perfect match to an assortment of foods. Drink now or keep a bit more!!